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December 2018

Substance: New Pearl

By Sandra Serpero

In a 16th arrondissement that awakes a little bit differently, this new trendy address moves the lines by being simply delightful. At the controls, Stéphane Manigold who had the dream of opening a restaurant. He discovered the young chef Matthias Marc, barely 25 years old, officiating at Racines des Prés and the dream became a reality. Escorted into the room by Anthony Pedrosa who worked in association with Lucas Carton, the fine team, driven by the same desires, unites and reveals itself in this brand desired to be a house that brings together the room, the stoves and the cellar in the same space. Their credo? To seek the truth of the product in a kitchen that is told in complicity, sharing, beautiful gestures and creativity. Each plate sets the taste by telling its own story. In technique and audacity, the chef Matthias Marc, astonishingly mature, delivers tasty dishes that follow the seasons, go to the land- or sea-side and make a special place for vegetables. That particular evening, amazing poached oysters, raw horseradish cream, beetroot and lemon. To follow, a roasted turbot, snack parsnip, grapefruit condiment and kalamensi sabayon: perfect. And to finish, a Sao Tomé chocolate soufflé, bitter cocoa crumble and fir ice cream that is infused with pleasure. Add to that an expert cellar that captures expressive wines and a relaxed chic atmosphere that has no other ambition than to set the moment in sincerity. Really great.
Substance, 18, rue Chaillot, Paris 16e. www.substance.paris

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