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July 5 2013

the bohemian

Feet firmly rooted in a glorious past and looking towards the ocean, Lisboners cultivate a kind of melancholy full of charm.

Join them in their small steep streets. Climb into the “electricos”, the old trams that jump from one hill to another. And discover their secret addresses for a bohemian chic weekend to discover delicious gastronomy and surprising places.

With its casual lifestyle Lisbon is one of the European “coolest” capitals.

Lisbon, PortugalTexts : Ludovic Bischoff

Lisbon or Lisboa
Capital of Portugal
Population: 10.5 million
Area: 92 000 km2
Language: Portuguese
Specialities: fado and sardines in all their forms.Portugal map


    To enjoy seafood and ultra fresh fish in a refined atmosphere, push back the door of Sea Me. This “Peixaria Moderna” located in the Chiado area deceives the world as its exterior resembles a clothing store!
    It is run by Chef Filipe Rodrigues who wanted to modernize the concept of a traditional fish shop.
    And if his shellfish and catch of the day is still available to buy in the small shop, you musn’t walk by without taking a seat at this chic and zen restaurant.
    Filipe Rodrigues is heavily influenced by Japanese cuisine and serves his fish as sushi, sashimi etc.
    The other part of the menu offers the seafood cooked in a Mediterranean style. This is the meeting of two cultures that we celebrate in this modern fish shop that magnifies the fruits of the sea.


  • MUDE

    The Museu do Design e da Moda (MUDE) opened its doors in 2009. In the heart of Lisbon, the old national overseas bank was chosen to present the 2500 pieces from the collection of Francisco Capelo. The architects merely scratched the wall and ceiling to expose the crude concrete as the only backdrop for the dresses, furniture and paintings on display. And the bank, a symbol of the power of the colonial empire that was Portugal, remained in its original state.
    This lends a strange atmosphere, somewhere between a barely open squat and a well swept museum. Here, we can observe how the design and fashion of the 20th century should be exhibited together. The result: a 1940s Dior evening gown faces an Arne Jacobsen chair and a gadget by Philippe Starck…Its a welcome change from traditional museums. Suitably enough, MUDE also means “change” in Portuguese!


  • 100 MANEIRAS

    The chef Ljubomir Stanisic, Serbian originally but Lisboan at heart, translates the bohemian soul of the city into his dishes with humor. An example: his fish and chips that he serves suspended on a wire machine as in the windows in the streets! And so,mthe playful spirit of the cook who has become one of the most popular in the city is summarised in a single dish. To earn a spot in his 100 Maneiras restaurant, in the Barrio Alto neighborhood, it is best to book. Otherwise, you will remain at the door.
    And that would be very sad because without manners but with class all the same, Ljubomir Stanisic gives an air of rock’n roll to Lisbon’s restaurant scene. His 45 euro surprise menu is a journey that revisits the classics of Portuguese cuisine with an inventiveness unrivaled in Lisbon. Ljubomir Stanisic has fun in the kitchen and it shows in the dishes!
    Copyright photos: Constantino Leite / 100 Maneiras



    To live “à la Portuguese,” is to take the time and not forget the glorious past of this small country that enlightened the world in the fifteenth century…And it is with the precise objective to not forget her childhood that Catarina Portas created A vida portuguesa. This boutique is a real treasure cave, storing a multitude of small everyday Portuguese objects, of yesterday and today. The former journalist has searched the country from top to bottom to find the artisans and family factories that still make the products of her childhood. She gathered her findings in her Chiado shop where Confiança soaps, Arcadia chocolates, Sanjo tennis shoes and Santa-Catarina preserves all sit crammed together…
    Catarina Porta believes that everyday objects have a soul. And those of her childhood should not have to disappear in the face of the big industrial brands today. In the pretty grandmother cabinets, therefore, sit the homemade preserves, ageless plastic toys, the small terracotta swallows that every Portuguese family used to hang on their on the doors and plenty of other obsolete and unnecessary things. Which are, of course, all absolutely essential…



    Opened in 1959, comissioned by Salazar to be Portugal’s landmark hotel, “the Ritz” is still a showcase for the 600 works of art that are scattered throughout. This is simply the largest private art collection in the city. And its enough to simply wander the halls, admiring paintings and sculptures by the greatest contemporary Portuguese artists (like Almada Negreiros, for example). The building, massive and imposing on the border of the Eduardo VII Park, is the lungs of the city.
    The rooms are obviously very luxurious but do not forget to swing by the immaculate spa and climb onto the roof of the building where a jogging track is installed! Running with the roofs of Lisbon in the panorama is a small, but utterly priceless luxury. The sushi restaurant at the Ritz is the most famous of the city. And the hotel offers guests exclusive services like the ability to explore the city in a sidecar with a guide. In short, live like a prince and discover the city as a backpacker, that is the bohemian chic design of the Ritz Lisboa!



    Sleeping in a former school? This is what the Hotel da Estrela proposes, a boutique hotel and member of the exclusive Small Luxury Hotels of the World label. Located in the heart of Lisbon, the 19 rooms are decorated with furniture from Portuguese schools. So you can read your emails on a school desk. Hang your clothes on pegs once nailed to the walls of a hallway kindergarten. And the carpet is adorned with mathematical equations and students graffiti…
    In short, a true journey into childhood! However, the modern comfort is offered with upscale rooms and cozy bathrooms. And various small touches such as your name on a blackboard at the front desk name make this hotel a place full of charms. Note that a restaurant, also vintage furnished, offers an inspired cuisine that can be enjoyed on the outdoor terrace, where the children played at recess…


    A city that knows how to make the new with the old? That’s Lisbon. The Lisboans love to revive the historical places. This is certainly true in the case of the Pensoa Amor, in the Cais do Sodré district. This former hotel for passing marines has become a very popular music bar. And this is where the best parties are go down. The cracked walls are covered with graffiti left, in some cases, by passing sailors.
    Rather than break down the barriers to create a dance floor, the new tenants have kept the rows of small rooms which you can slide into, to flirt in the corner or simply enjoy a cocktail with friends.
    The whole of Rua do Alecrim – where the Pensao Amor is located – is filled with bars. In the evening, life spills over the sidewalks and one must fight their way through the crowd in order to reach the bar.
    But of all the addresses in the street, it is in the Pensao Amor that the atmosphere is the most authentic and the most joyous.
    Copyrights photos: Luiz Carvalho



    It is impossible to come to Lisbon without biting into one of those famous little egg flans encased in a pastry shell, which is the most famous Portuguese pastry. The pastéis de nata are eaten throughout the city. But the pastéis de Belém, they are unique. One must head to the Belém district, via tram to the edge of the sea, to explore this vast pastisserie that has been serving its pastéis since 1837. The recipe is still the same after all these years. And it remains one of the most coveted secrets of the country. This giant patisserie, with rooms decorated with beautiful tiles, is located next to the beautiful Jeronimos Monastery.
    The legend says it was one of the occupants of the monastery, upon its closure, who opened his small business and popularized what would become the most iconic patisserie in Portugal. Today, thousands of visitors flock every day to see the pastry chefs at work and offer up some pastéis, served warm with a little cinnamon sugar. If you must try one pastéis in Lisbon, this is the place to come. You will not be alone…But its important to discover that they are tastier here than anywhere else.



    As in the neighborhood of Dumbo in Brooklyn, USA, there is a huge bridge that overlooks the old red-brick factories. And here, too, the people that you meet encounter of bearded hipsters and hippy chic young women. Yet you are in Lisbon! LX Factory has restaurants, bars and shops in the old factories of the “Companhia de Fiação e Tecidos Lisbonense.”
    This beautiful complex of industrial buildings has been revived thanks to the many artists and communication, internet and theatre professionals that have set up their offices here. You can taste the best “chocolate cake” in the city in Landeau. Or Asian influenced cuisine at Malacca Too which has placed its tables amongst the old rotaries of a printing shop. A surprising and original decor, probably unique in the world! In the same building, one can peruse the shelves of the the Ler Devagar library. This is the flagship space of the LX Factory.
    Thousands of used books climb along the high walls of this building as vast as a train station – it comes as no surprise to learn that art exhibitions are often organised here. Designer boutiques and trendy cafes complete the offerings of this place like nowhere else in the alleyways, where a small family flea market stands on Sunday afternoons. To meet all the creatives “who make Lisbon”, LX Factory is definitely the place to do it.


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