In the suitcase
of Christian Le Squer
Text by Béatrice Delamotte – photos Stephane de Bourgies
Awarded three stars for the restaurant Le Cinq, in the heart of the Four Seasons Hotel George V, Christian Le Squer knows how to move forward to capture the essence of the moment. An assumed modernity that pays homage to the French art of living.
Since his arrival at the head of the kitchens of the Parisian palace in 2014, Christian Le Squer has hoisted Le Cinq, the flagship of George V in the firmament: three Michelin stars and a 19/20 at the Gault & Millau. All of this in two years! And this year, in the momentum, the two other restaurants of the hotel were each rewarded with a star: the George led by the talented Simone Zanoni (former chef of the Trianon Palace in Versailles) and L ‘ Orangerie and its chef David Bizet, who obtained carte blanche after fifteen years spent in the team of the George V. “Simone is an established chef, David quietly grows and I never look back,” says Christian Le Squer who does not hide his satisfaction.
Far from his native Brittany, the chef seems to have found a new home port and not regret his fifteen years spent at the Pavilion Ledoyen, where he had also obtained three Michelin stars. “Even if I received politicians and bosses of the CAC40, it is only now that I have the feeling of being part of the Parisian circle of the big tables. It must be said that between the “innkeeper of the Champs-Elysees” and the Christian Le Squer of today, social networks have changed everything. Hooked up to his smartphone, the chef publishes photos on Instagram, posts on Facebook and Twitter. And in his office, in the heart of the George V’s kitchens, a counter regularly slams to announce a new follower on Facebook. “I do a lot of live story-telling on social networks; This is now part of my work, explains Christian Le Squer. It also requires me to have another vision of my job and to question myself all the time. ”
This does not prevent him from spending a lot of time with his teams to create new dishes, to test new food and wine arrangements with Eric Beaumard, director of the Cinq and sommelier. “The Legend” as Christian Le Squer affectionately nicknamed him. “I consider myself a creator of flavors. I do not claim a complicated cuisine, but rather to highlight tastes, textures. A dish must be legible, pure. I need not dazzle like a young chef; I can just go to the basics. “A sophistication that seems to satisfy the customers since the restaurant Le Cinq is often full, both at lunchtime and in the evening. “Our real challenge is to be able to bring the same emotion to a Japanese as to an Emiratis while their culinary cultures are so different, and to offer them the best of the French art of living , with exceptional products “Insists Christian Le Squer
Holidays, where would you go?
Under the sun in the winter, to rest, swim, read. And in the summer, I enrich myself. For example, I went to learn the art of green tea in Japan.
Your favorite destinations?
I am curious about everything, I have a great ability to adapt and I know how to deal with all circumstances. But I always spend a week at the Royal Palm in Mauritius. There, time stops for a few days
Bag or suitcase?
Definitely suitcase. With very good wheels.
An indispensable item in your suitcase …
I am a shoe fan and I therefore always carry wooden shapes. Even for my sneakers!
And in Paris, where do you go to eat?
Everything depends on who I am with … There is an incredible move in every neighborhood, today we can eat well all over Paris. As I am open-minded, I can go to the Baratin in Belleville, Beurre Noisette in the 15th, Okuda next to the hotel, or at l’Aubrac with a viandard friend or at Passard … I am very open !