The world of… Frédéric Malle
Marie Le Fort
The ‘Nose’ and genius perfumer Frederic Malle continues to conquer the olfactive world with his fresh ideas.
For example, his range of Perfume Guns are home fragrances that are dispensed the same way one would fire a revolver. His scents are created with the same intricacy as characters in a book. A home fragrance diffuser resembles a piece of minimal cubic art lacquered in red or his Rubber Incense (frankincense rubber), is a sort of high-tech lavender sachet designed to perfume small volumes such as closets. Who knew that a plate of 100% recyclable fragrant gum,
a mixture of millennium and precious wood, incense and stone, could one day become a highly desirable luxury item?
With an atypical creative spirit, Frederic Malle has always been ‘it’. For when choosing to name his house “Editions de Parfums”, he underlined not only an obvious literary connotation as his way of composing a range, but primarily sought to implement a working method based on mutual respect by giving the best ‘noses’ of the profession the opportunity to express themselves without constraint.
Designed by the best noses in perfumery – stars such as Pierre Bourdon, Dominique Ropion, Jean-Claude Ellena, the feminine sensibility of Olivia Gicobetti and the essential signature of Maurice Roucel – the fragrance collection reveals itself as a dramatis personea: Carnal Flower, Portrait of a Lady, Dans Tes Bras, French Lover, Angéliques sous la Pluie…With each whiff, one quickly recognises it as the world of perfume written as literature. Yet, if this seems like a fictionalized adventure – or even rose water – rest assured that each perfume is the result of work by a passionate craftsman, created by a nose that wishes to restore the crest of perfumery…something that has too often been subjected to over-marketing.
A work of ‘nose’-manship of sorts, traced through the pages of “De l’Art du Parfum”, his first illustrated book. From the outset, a preface by Catherine Deneuve presents the work before the iconoclastic Frederic Malle presents his career, his memories, his insight and success. Later on, he reveals for the first time the process of developing a perfume, which he created with the best noses, like ‘En Passant’ by Olivia Giacobetti or ‘Portrait of a Lady’ by Dominique Ropion.
An exciting journey where Frederic Malle modestly recounts his passion and work as a pioneer of new scents, always exclusive and confidential.
Photos on the top : portrait of Frédéric Malle. “French Lover” perfume by Pierre Bourdon. Konstantin Kakanias drawing used as cover art for the book “De l’Art du Parfum” by Frédéric Malle. © Gérard Glaume.
“De l’Art du Parfum”, a book published by Editions Angelika Books. € 98.
Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle: 21 rue du Mont Thabor, 75001 Paris. 01 42 22 16 89.