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February 2014

Gile Restaurant

Interior & plates at Gile, Istanbul

Past the commercialized fringe of this main street in Akaretler, Gile stands as the gastronomic exception in Istanbul. Led by the duo of Chefs Cihan Kıpçak and Üryan Doğmuş (who ran La Mouette before embarking on this solo venture), this table is finally approaching a fluency in the kitchen made entirely from Turkish produce and flavors. In a neo-Scandinavian décor enlivened with colorful paintings and a wine cellar wall, we plunge with delight into Anatolian and Aegean traditional dishes with a küşleme, a lamb fillet wrapped in filo pastry accompanied by blackened eggplant, beets, hummus and roasted pepper, and the “octopus ash” served with celery leaves, parsley salt, lemon confit and blackened leeks. An address that takes its cue from French cuisine to glorify local flavors.


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