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February 2014

Ricard Camarena, the adventurer of taste

The Chef Ricard Camanera is a follower of modern and creative cuisine popularized by Ferran Adria. Photos by Ludovic Bischoff

One must have plenty of time at their disposal to spend seated in order to experience the myriad of tapas and dishes served by Ricard Camarena in his new location in the neighborhood of Russafa. Here is another table – also adorned with a Michelin star – which pushes the boundaries of experimentation as far as the famous molecular cuisine popularized by Ferran Adria, the high-profile, multi award-winning chef of El Bulli .
As well as the hake gelatin filling and the silver throat of a fish, served in a spoon as an amuse bouche, and the chicken spine risotto, there are some truly culinary experiences to be had here. The tuna tartare arranged under a shell of young broccoli is beautifully graphic. The minestrone vegetable soup with truffles and a velouté of vinegar is a perfect note of fresh crispness. And the hare served three ways (meatball broth, hot terrine and fileted) alone is worth the detour to this highly sought-out gastronomic address. Ricard Camarena is very present in the restaurant and comes to each table to “finish” dishes here and there, by adding a broth or some secret sauce. Here, the best thing is to be ‘an adventurer of taste’ and dare to tackle the 8-course tasting menu of this very inventive restaurant. Camarena’s creations are an excellent example of the culinary movida that has been shaking up the Iberian food scene in recent years.


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