After a panzanella salad – with tomatoes, carrots and “a poor man’s” celery, so called because it incorporates pieces of grissini – served in the middle of the terrace above the valley, opt for a charcuterie plate or the house chicken ragout. At the end of the day, head for Enoteca where the tasting of wines from small local producers speak for themselves – despite the other mainstream Italian vintages on the menu – before an authentic dinner of slow cooked vegetables, fresh pasta and risotto. At night, the lanterns of the village give a near pastoral dimension to Castiglioncello del Trinoro; in the twilight, they could be the lights of the largest homes in the valley.
Castiglioncello del Trinoro, Provincia di Siena, Toscane. Tél. +39 057 826 8146. www.monteverdituscany.com