13 November 2016
It is time for pot-au-feu
Here it is: fall is well installed and the ambient lower temperature makes you want to find the comforting side of traditional dishes. It is time for pot-au-feu (more and more rare), blanquette and other simmered dishes that satisfy both soul and gluttony.
The new “cave à manger” that has just opened at Abbesses allows you to enjoy a table d’auteur, sprinkled with a selection of organic wines. The menu is reduced, but served with quality products and the original interpretation of the young chef, Geoffroy Perdon. It offers a form of luxury in simplicity with warm dishes such as a superb bone marrow tartine with mushrooms or a delicate soup of celeriac rave and panacotta with Parmesan cheese. Side dishes, the farmer chicken sautéed allows to consider life serenely. Only constraint: The red lips are only opened in the evening …
New address on the Boulevard du Montparnasse, L’Apollo revives the spirit of the Roaring Twenties. Originally, Paul Poirier to whom one already owes Le Polo, in the XVIth arrondissement. Passionate about local products and good meat, he supplies himself at his sister’s like other great chefs like Thierry Marx, Cyril Lignac and even Guillaume Gomez at the Elysées. If you prefer the soft and simmered pieces, the osso bucco is done according to the rules of the art, with carrots and celery. Generous and tasty, this dish is accompanied by a true baba with rum, made according to the rules of art. And it is opened every day, until 2 am to extend the experience with a cocktail at the bar in the Prohibition spirit of the place.
As the centerpiece of the renewal of the Forum des Halles, the Champeaux is also one of the last addresses of Alain Ducasse, which is no longer presented. Original interpretation of the contemporary brasserie, the place welcomes families, friends as well as business meals in a very contemporary atmosphere. On the side of the menu, the chef Bruno Brangea knows to coincide this modernity with great classics of French cuisine. So, on Thursday, it’s old-style blanquette! A family dish, comforting and gourmand to face a mediocre weather in all serenity. To accompany with one of the seventy wines selected all over Europe by Gérard Margeon, the sommelier chef of the restaurants of Alain Ducasse.
Placed in the heart of the station Saint-Lazare, the brasserie imagined by Eric Frechon, three-star chef of the Bristol, gives pride of place to the great classics of family and traditional French cuisine. Here, lovers of small dishes simmered, true flavors and gourmet are in paradise. When reading the menu, one falls back to childhood with endives au gratin, salted salmon with lentils or even the great lamb of 7 hours with olives and lemon. Served with a boulgour with the juice of cooking, the meat is fondant, almost creamy, full of aromas. A great moment of regression …
David Rathgeber is a fervent advocate of tradition, that of the great classics of French gastronomy that is manifested in concentrations, broths, juices, sauces. A mastery of the fundamentals that allows the young chef of Clermont to offer dishes emblematic of the brasserie cuisine, from the most refined to the most rabbled in a place in his image: simplicity and good flesh. As soon as you enter, you enter the basics: potted snails, old-fashioned pie and rillettes of preserved pig and foie gras calm the most sharp appetites. But the choice becomes cornelian when one arrives to the dishes unless to be seduced by the cassoulet house. A dish that recalls the Sunday family reunions in a generous south-west.
David Bizet, the young chef of the Orangerie at the Four Seasons George V, has just won the first title of world champion of royal hare. This reference dish perpetuates the original flavors, but has been cooked with current techniques and presented in a contemporary way. Hunter and son of hunter, David Bizet is a lover of the game: “the cooking is above all a know-how to the French, he explains. I work with short juices and condiments. Everything is about balance between the power of meat and the finesse of what goes with it. “Attention: the Orangerie has only twenty seats …
It is at the Hotel Nolinski that the new brewery Réjane hosts in a sophisticated decor that looks like a modern bistro. It proposes the essentials of the brewery card, eggs mimosas, leeks vinaigrette, blanquette de veau, and the traditional Bœuf Bourguignon softly caramelized, prepared by Fulvio Pischedda the Chief, former sous chef of Atelier Robuchon, near the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. Comforting family dishes accompanied by pastries by Yann Brys, best worker in France in 2011 and head of creation at Dalloyau. AFM
Antoine Westermann is a lover of French cuisine, whether contemporary or very classical. And in his standard restaurant, he marries the two of them between menu and semainier. On the latter, the Alsatian chef gives pride to these warm and convivial dishes. Fancy Burgundy? So go there on Tuesdays. Bouchée à la reine? It’s on Wednesdays. As for the generous pot-au-feu, it is necessary to wait until Saturday, when the little Antoine used to savor that prepared dish by his mother. Suggested all year-round, it features tasty meats and good vegetables. The little extra? The ramekins of celery remoulade, beetroot which accompany it and bring crunch in opposition to the fondant of the other ingredients. Unpredictable!