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19 august 2016

ILE BENDOR, Bandole, august 2016 PLUMEVOYAGE @plumevoyagemagazine © Françoise SPIEKERMEIER


Text & photo by Françoise Spiekermeier

In Bandol we love words, films and architecture. In the 30s, the synergy of three gave birth to the casual chic of this seaside resort located between Marseille and Toulon at the foot of hills plunging into the sea. Within it major works of modern literature were born. Marlon Brando falls in love with a local girl, and D.H.Lawrence writer (author of Lady Chatterley’s Lover) continued his dream of creating a utopian community in the fight against the decline of the West in the war. Today we like to blend into the decor, to mingle with the festive crowd and to smile to adopt its casual chic.

  • Rudy Ricciotti and Fleury Linossier

    Bandol is an architectural city. Cradle claimed by architect Rudy Ricciotti which; between Cocteau Museum in Menton and a museum of the civilizations of Europe and the Mediterranean in Marseille, perch scenic villas balancing between cliffs and pine forests, the village is full of remarkable buildings constructed from the 30s by architect Linossier Fleury, from elementary school to the municipal stadium through residences for actors and celebrities including those of Mistinguett, Maurice Chevalier or Gregory Peck. Architecture and cinema are inextricably linked to it. The Casino opens in Bandol in 1930 with a movie theater in addition to the Cinema Camera, still standing in its small alley escaping to the sea, whose screen has seen all bandolaises families, generation after generation since the day the cinema became talking. This technical revolution, Pagnol seized immediately reach: quickly he adapted his dramatic success -it turns Marius cinema in 1931 with the Paramount- and it was a global success in Europe, the USA and Japan. “Plus it’s local, it’s more general,” he concluded. So true!

  • A fishing village surrounded by rolling hills

    Louis Lumière, the inventor of filmmaking in La Ciotat, retires in Bandol where one crosses the physicist Louis Albert de Broglie, Nobel Prize in 1929, discoverer of wave mechanics. In 1931, in the Bay of Bandol, Aldous Huxley buys a house and wrote Brave New World, a classic of utopian literature which seem almost a fiction novel. All these personalities loved this fishing village surrounded by rolling hills where we can live peacefully and enjoy the simple pleasures, surrounded by friends. With such energy heritage, almost a hundred years later, there are a thousand reasons to visit Bandol! Here are five …

  • The first: the islands

    The first: the rocky cutting of its coast and some islands including Bendor. The island gained in the 50s by Paul Ricard, fully equipped according to his plans, has a charm. A shuttle connects it to the mainland in six minutes and landed there, one enters another world, an operetta blending Greece and Provence. The miniature port bounded by stone facades composed a village whose inhabitants are tourists, regulars every summer recreating their heavenly microcosm. We see them in shirt and thong, go to their room to the beach, strolling the passage in the artisan shops. Side face, civilization, loungers and shaded terraces; battery side, the open sea and rocky coves battered by the waves.

  • The second: a night rocked by the sea at Hotel Delos

    The second: on the island, a cuddly night rocked by the sea at Hotel Delos. Request 211 preferably, although most rooms have balconies overlooking the sea, it has a special charm. The hotel built in white stone evokes a Greek villa. The sun terrace and its confidential pool overlooking the bay are perfect for reading or daydreaming admiring the sea. In the evening the hotel bar comes alive with muffled conversations deep in the alcoves. To party, just take the boat and join the busy port of Bandol. We play bocce late at night in the light of street lamps from the terrace of the Bar des Palmiers and yachts moored at the dock.

  • The historical heart of Bandol

    The third: Back on dry land in the heart of the village, in the morning, the small market square between the town hall and the Church is the historical heart of Bandol, a magic triangle described by the writer Katherine Mansfield in her Letters. The appointment of the small producers of vegetables on tomatoes, zucchini flowers, beans pistou soup, all for anchovy fish … the local fishing and the famous basil that never leaves the table. After filling our basket, we catch the flight packed lunch or a simple bruschetta with Cécilien, the young chef of the market, then we ask ourselves on the terrace of Bar Tobacco Nerval, in the shade of plane trees to sip ACE (Orange Carrot Lemon for vitamins a, C, E) watching people do their shopping. At least we do prefer Buffalo to share a glass of rosé in the Bandol neighborhood bistro pure juice where Marlene welcomes you with a big smile. Even the real Tarte Tropezienne is housed in Bandol or she does not feel disoriented on the port that is comparable to that of Saint-Tropez!

  • The fourth: the well-being side

    The fourth: On the well-being side, the yoga session on the beach Renecros dominated by villas in retro style, among which stands the villa Raimu with its contemporary design by architect Fleury Linossier in the 30.s From the first songs of cicada, we sit on the breakwater protecting the bay to begin a sun salutation with Carole, never short of ideas to do good. The meeting was followed by a cocktail of fresh fruits at Julie, at the Chipote, a restaurant with orange umbrellas and beach mattress on the boardwalk in pure Italian Riviera style.

  • The fifth: the evening walk on the port of Bandol

    The fifth: the “passeggiata” evening walk on the port of Bandol. A ritual. We come from Marseille to enjoy the summer fun. The terraces are everywhere and each is unique. There is the Auberge du Port and its wine bar Toche, Bistro du Port: two essential fish restaurants where you can savor grilled or baked in salt wild fish . There are cocktail bars, the Chin-Chin with a cozy and jazzy atmosphere, Chez Poupoune, bar orchestra that puts the atmosphere, the Admiral, the favorite of yachtsmen. Pushing further, Les Galets restaurant whose terrace overlooks the bay looking a lot like Portofino. And finally, the address of the night, Scotch: both French and Asian fusion cuisine restaurant, with tables arranged in a vaulted cellar, a cozy bar introduces a dance floor as big as a pocket handkerchief . We leave the torpor to cool off in the street, on the terrace. Between dances, conversations engage in almost all languages, with, in addition, the Provencal accent tips.

  • The little extras

    Finally, a little extra: the trip to the vineyards of the AOC Bandol, in the rolling hills alternating pine trees and vineyards, to discover the local jewels of the Bandol wine. The rosé that goes around the world and the international reputation of the appellation, matures in cool cellars scattered on the surrounding communities. The ride on the country roads take you to discover the landscapes of Provence. Among sixty areas Castle Pibarnon, the Domaine Bunan or Gros’Noré receive in their vault located as near Bandol. Yet, needless to leave the port: at the entrance of the village, the wine cellar contains samples of all fields and therefore allows a first approach to amateurs. But to finish off this bandolais stay, rejoin the “Planque”… it’s a little bit ” the “place to be » of the Bandol people, the appointment of friends … Every Thursday evening, under the eucalyptus trees and the palms trees, Alex Bunan from the Dunan Domain gathers his friends around a DJ. Barrels used as tables, a bar under the fig tree and the dancefloor on the gravel …. You can taste the fresh rosé from the sunset until midnight.

    – Cinema Camera: 105, Avenue November 11 Tel: 04 94 29 42 79
    – Hotel Le Delos: http://www.lesilespaulricard.com/hebergements/
    – Cécibien the market: Cécilien, catering to the daily market of Bandol. Such. : 06 71 83 29 68
    – Bar Tobacco Nerval: 2 Place Liberté, 83150 Bandol. Such. : 0494323961
    – Buffalo: 12 rue Pierre Toesca. Tel 04 94 29 54 34
    – Bar Les Palmiers: 30, Allée Alfred Vivien. Such. : 04 94 25 26 50
    -The Pie Tropézienne 1955 Saint-Tropez, 3 Bd Victor Hugo, Tel. : 04 94 07 97 35
    – The Chipote: 12 Corniche Bonaparte, Tel. : 04 94 29 41 62
    – Yoga Carole (Carole Farouze) on Facebook, carole@lavoieduyoga.com
    – The Auberge du Port www.auberge-du-port.com 9 Allée Jean Moulin, Tel. : 04 94 29 42 63
    – Le Bistro du Port le-bistro-du-port.com. Such. : 04 94 29 41 39
    – The Chin-Chin: 11 avenue Jean Moulin. Such. : 04 94 29 41 04
    – Bar Poupoune: 1 quai Charles de Gaulle. Such. : 04 94 32 41 79
    – Les Galets Hotel Restaurant: 49 Montée Voisin. Tel.04 94 29 43 46
    – Scotch, 1 rue du Docteur Louis Marçon. Such. : 04 94 29 80 08
    – Enoteca Wine of Bandol, Bandol Wine House, Place Lucien Artaud. Such. : 04 94 29 45 03 www.vinsdebandol.com
    -Domaine Of Gros’Noré www.gros-nore.com
    -Chateau Of Pibarnon www.pibarnon.com
    -Domaine Bunan www.bunan.com

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