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March 28 2014

The World of MAXIME SIMOENS

Portrait of Maxime Simoens, photo by Max Cardelli.

Françoise Spiekermeier

The barcode for DNA.

Maxime Simoens thinks big. This young gifted designer, a self-confessed perfectionist, excels in everything he applies himself to.

In his training as a mathematician, he developed a sense for geometry and shape, but it was his extreme sensitivity that led him to want to make the abstract into the concrete. Clothing appeared to him as the most direct means to express this sensitivity, and specifically his fascination with the great figures of the female sex: Audrey Hepburn, Marlène Dietrich, Grace Kelly, Marilyn Monroe, whose posters covered the walls of his bedroom as a teenager. Between the rigid figures of geometry and the soft forms of femininity, Simoens found a need to create an entirely new model for his creations. His clothing allowed him to restore the balance between the feminine and the masculine, creating a structured, architectural and sensual setting in which to protect the charm and fragility of women that he so admires.

With a generous approach that never wanes from season to season,
Simoens’ designs tell a story while maintaining a backbone with strict, rational and clean lines that shows the direction of the body, coupled with a feline fluidity.
His work is fueled by desire to channel the interior female being, whilst also embodying grace in a game of perfectly arranged volumes and shapes. But without annihilating the sensuality of the flesh that is reflected in the materials used: silk, fur, cracked leather, cashmere…materials that are constantly reworked in order to extract their very essence.
In order to highlight the sublime, the sublime feel of the fabric on the skin. The way he works with light is also a very prominent part of his work, made to look like a kind of inner fire externalized on the surface of the body. In his Autumn-Winter 2014-2015 collection– his third ready-to-wear collection, inspired by space (specifically the films Gravity and 2001: A Space Odyssey) – the silhouettes navigated in chiaroscuro. On a base of black and white, the embroidery, along with the gold and silver panels punctuated with metallic jewelry made from crystals graciously donated by Swarovski created shine as well as the inlay of matte pearls arranged on the chest of dresses or down long, elegant sleeves “to make each of the models look a little star,” and every woman, like a star ready to slip onto the red carpet. Even the pants were wildly chic, with a long train at the top.
For Simoens, the shape of the body dictates the architecture of the clothing but also of interior design, which is a logical extension of his work.
After having entirely furnished and decorated his Paris headquarters on rue Montmarte, as though the walls were a continuity of his clothing, he also was chosen to design the interior of the cabane de l’île aux oiseuax, a luxury suite at the Sources de Caudalie spa, near Bordeaux, at the request of the owner, Alice Tourbier. The main focus of the décor is a barcode painted on the wall – an architectural and somewhat random symbol which Maxime Simoens has made his signature – colored mainly in blue and green in keeping with the lake on which the hut is built. The barcode transformed into wallpaper in a pattern called “LGD” is omnipresent and creates depth by superimposing the outlines. And around the bed is an initial in a string of neon light: M, for Maxime.

Look 1 Jacket in white mink & cashmere. Skirt  in white mink & cashmere, photos © Olivier Buhagiar

Look 3 Knitted sweater in rabbit laser and white cashmere, sleeves in white fox. Pants in white cashmere, photos © Olivier Buhagiar

Look 10 Dress in rabbit laser, white chiffon and crepe de chine. White fox Bolero. Brass bracelets and lunar necklace, photos © Olivier Buhagiar

Look 11 Coat in white mink & cashmere. Swarovski beaded bracelets, photos © Olivier Buhagiar

Look 9 Top in stretch black crepe and silver studs. Skirt in silver jacquard cosmos tissue. Black fox bolero and black belt in lambskin leather with silver studs,  photos © Olivier Buhagiar

Look 12 Jacket in black stretch crepe and lunar embroidery. Canvas trousers and black wool pockets black cracked lambskin. Belt in white velvet leather, photos © Olivier Buhagiar

look 13 Short, black, stretch crepe dress with snow embroidery,  photos © Olivier Buhagiar

Look 16 Pants in silver lurex jacquard fabric. Canvas jacket in black wool and silver lurex jacquard, photos © Olivier Buhagiar

Look 18 Pants in black and white stretch jacquard fabric. Jacket in black stretch jacquard fabric and white stretch crepe and black duchess satin . Chiffon Blouse in herringbone fabric and black crepe de Chine. Brass lunar necklace. Photos © Olivier Buhagiar

Look 19 Black chiffon dress with chevron embroidery and black crepe de Chine. Bolero in black fox. Swarovski beaded bracelets.Photos © Olivier Buhagiar

 Look 23 black crepe de chine blouse striped stellar embroidery. Pants in saturated white jacquard fabric and saturated black jacquard. Photos © Olivier Buhagiar

Look 25 Black jacket in stretch crêpe and stellar stripe embroidery. Dress in black and white saturated jacquard, photos © Olivier Buhagiar

Look 30 Dress in white and black crepe de chine with cosmos embroidery. Belt in black calfskin. Photos © Olivier Buhagiar

Look 35 Black blouse in crepe de chine and galaxy embroidery with black fox sleeves . Belt black lambskin leather and silver studs. Black jersey leggings with silver rhinestones. Photos © Olivier Buhagiar

Look 38 Black stretch crepe jacket and black satin embossed embroidery. Blouse in crepe de Chine and black chiffon. Black stretch crepe pants embossed embroidery. Photos © Olivier Buhagiar

 

Look 39 Trapeze Dress in black stretch crepe & gold embossed embroidery, photos © Olivier Buhagiar

Look 20 Top in black traine chiffon fabric and white chevron canvas and black wool. Pants in white stretch crepe and black stretch crepe, photos © Olivier Buhagiar

Striped Coat in black and white fox. Black dress in chiffon and crepe de chine. Photos © Olivier Buhagiar

Look Top 34 Dragging strapless top in gathered chiffon with flocked silver glitter in black canvas and wool and black crepe de chine. Pants in black stretch crepe and black duchess satin. Belt in black calf leather and silver studs, photos © Olivier Buhagiar

Look 25 black stretch crepe pants with striped stellar embroidery. Knitted turtleneck sweater in jacquard cosmos, wire wool and lurex . Jacket in cracked black lamb leather and black cashmere cloth with a black mink collar. Photos © Olivier Buhagiar

Look 6 Long dress in black gabardine and a panelled bustier with a pied-de-poule pattern and Crystal Fabric Swarovski cobalt blue, photos © Olivier Buhagiar

Look 34 Dress in Black Satin with a constellation of ceramic Swarovski stones in marble black, photos © Olivier Buhagiar

Look 7 Long strapless dress in black gabardine and a panelled bustier with a pied-de-poule pattern and Crystal Fabric Swarovski white crystal, photos © Olivier Buhagiar

Look 31 Short dress in pale blue satin with white bodice embellished with a shower of blue marble ceramic stones by Swarovski, photos © Olivier Buhagiar

Interior of the cabane de l’île aux oiseuax, a luxury suite at the Sources de Caudalie spa, near Bordeaux. Photos by Xavier Béjot.

Interior of the cabane de l’île aux oiseuax, a luxury suite at the Sources de Caudalie spa, near Bordeaux. Photos by Xavier Béjot.

Interior of the cabane de l’île aux oiseuax, a luxury suite at the Sources de Caudalie spa, near Bordeaux. Photos by Xavier Béjot.


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